The Easy Crochet Cocoon Cardigan is a beautiful and simple sweater full of fabulous texture. Looking for one of the easiest cardi patterns out there? You’ve come to the right spot! This crochet beauty is made with an easy rectangle then cleverly seamed in just two spots, giving it the sleeves. I’ve added a simple edging around the opening and the sleeves, giving it a finished look too. This is a perfect beginner friendly project too!
👉Get the ad free pattern PDF from my shop here!👈
Watch a full video tutorial on how to make the Easy Crochet Cocoon Cardigan:
Love video tutorials? Subscribe to the Fiber Flux YouTube channel for more stitchy fun!
Materials:
- J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
- 1,230 yards of #4/medium weight yarn (I used 5 balls of Color Theory from Two of Wands/Lion Brand Yarn in the “Stonewash” colorway)
- Yarn/tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring Tape
- Removable stitch marker
Sizing:
- Rectangle before seaming is 32 inches wide and 40 inches tall.
- Top of the neck straight down to the bottom of the sweater is 32 inches.
- Widest points across (from sleeve to sleeve) is 32 inches.
- Neck and front edging adds both length to the chest and to the bottom of the cardigan (edging shown with the number of rounds I worked adds about 3 inches)
- Sleeve edging adds another bit of length (edging shown adds about 1.5 inches) but you can easily work more rounds to make your sleeve as long as you like.
Pattern Notes for the Cozy Easy Crochet Cocoon Cardigan:
- Easily change the sizing of the cardigan by both changing the size of the rectangle and the edging. Edging rounds can be added to increase the chest measurement. Likewise, sleeve edging can increase the length of the sleeves.
- Queue up this project on Ravelry here!
- Love free crochet sweater patterns? Get more free crochet sweater patterns here!
Easy Crochet Cocoon Cardigan Instructions:
Instructions For C2C Width Increase Portion:
Row 1: Ch 6, then work a dc into the 4th ch from the hook. Work a dc into each of the next 2 ch.
Row 2: Ch 6. Work a dc into the 4th ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch. Slip stitch into the 3rd dc stitch to join the two blocks together. You’ll need to flip the block a bit to get to the right spot. Just make sure your tail is pointing downward and you’ll be in the right position. Ch 3, then work 3 dc into the turning ch space.
Row 3: Ch 6 (you may need to turn things a bit so that the tail is facing downward again). Work a dc into the 4th ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch. Slip stitch into the turning chain space of the next block to join the two blocks together. You’ll need to flip the block a bit to get to the right spot. Just make sure your tail is pointing downward and you’ll be in the right position. *Ch 3, then work 3 dc into the turning ch space and slip stitch into the turning chain space to join the two blocks together. Repeat from * across. When you work the last block, you won’t need to slip stitch it into anything, simply move onto the next row.
Repeat row 3 until your piece is the width you’d like it to be (the rectangle I made was 30 inches wide), then move on to part 2.
Instructions For C2C Height Increase Portion:
Note: To keep me from getting my sides mixed up, I placed a stitch marker on the side where I decreased.
Row 1: Ch 6, then work a dc into the fourth ch from the hook. Work a dc in each of the next two chains, then join with a slip stitch to connect the two blocks together. Work (3 dc, ch 1) and join blocks with a slip stitch in each ch 1 space across until just before the last space (turning chain space). At the end of the row, join into the last block with a slip stitch. Turn and work a slip stitch in each stitch across the first block of the row. Continue across the row in this manner, working the increase at the beginning of the row and decreasing (where stitch marker is) at the end of the row.
Repeat until the piece is as tall as you like, I worked my height to 40 inches tall.
Instructions for C2C Decrease Portion:
Row 1: Turn the work and slip stitch in each stitch across the first block, and slip stitch into the turning chain space. *Ch 3, then work 3 dc into the turning ch space. Join into the next block with a slip stitch. Repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat row 1 of the decrease until just a top point remains. Fasten off and weave in ends that remain. Note: if the top is challenging for you, be sure to check out the video for this part (or any other part) to see me walk through it step by step!
Seaming The Rectangle:
Once the rectangle has been stitched up, it’s time to seam it up!
- Begin by laying the rectangle out as shown above.
- Fold the corners in on both ends
- Next, seam as shown in the photo above using a matching piece of yarn.
- You can wear the swater as is, or continue below for a simple edging, giving it a more finished look.
Sleeve Edging:
- Repeat the following for each sleeve opening.
- Round 1:
- Tie yarn into any stitch (they will be in groups of three, one per block) and chain 2.
- Work 2 hdc into that first block (note: some blocks will be upright, allowing you to see the stitches easier, some will be sideways. In this case, just work into the spaces you see)
- Work 3 hdc into the next block that you see. Again, some blocks will be upright, some sideways. Just be sure you are getting three stitches into each block.
- Work 3 hdc into each block around.
- Join with a slip stitch to close the round.
- Round 2:
- Ch 3. Work a dc into each stitch around.
- Join with a slip stitch to close the round.
- Repeat round 2 as many times as you need for your edging. The sweater’s sleeves as shown has a total of 1 hdc round and 1 dc round.
Neck & Front of Sweater Edging:
- This is worked the same exact way the sleeve openings are worked, except the round will just have more stitches.
- Round 1:
- Tie yarn into any stitch (they will be in groups of three, one per block) and chain 2.
- Work 2 hdc into that first block (note: some blocks will be upright, allowing you to see the stitches easier, some will be sideways. In this case, just work into the spaces you see)
- Work 3 hdc into the next block that you see. Again, some blocks will be upright, some sideways. Just be sure you are getting three stitches into each block.
- Work 3 hdc into each block around.
- Join with a slip stitch to close the round.
- Round 2:
- Ch 3. Work a dc into each stitch around.
- Join with a slip stitch to close the round.
- Repeat round 2 as many times as you need for your edging. The sweater shown has a total of 1 hdc round and 3 dc rounds.
Finishing & Assembly:
Weave in any ends that remain and you’re finished your Cozy Easy Crochet Cocoon Cardigan!
